Saturday 4 October 2014

Long weekend away on the bikes in Wales, Strata Florida & Llandrindod Wells

The bike while it was still clean, after many river crossings it was filthy at the end!


Took a bit of a wrong turn and ended up at a deadend.


As you can see, trying to find our way. Thank god for OS maps.


We managed to find a perfect place to camp before it got dark, Matt trying to find some firewood below..



The bike light worked a treat at night while camping too. Cooking up some porridge with Nutella in the morning.





An old mine in the woods and the middle of nowhere! Really interesting place, absolutely nobody around.



Our camping spot, we left the tent there the first night to dry out as we weren't going far.


The track leading to our camp site. We camped in Strata Florida the second night.


We both dropped the bikes off road a few times, which helped to scratch up my crash bars, but didn't do any other damage which is a bonus.

Until next time! Planning a trip to the Alps in September next year.

Saturday 30 August 2014

BMW R1150GS Water, fuel and tool storage

After camping for the first time on the GS back in June I figured I need to fit some extra storage racks etc. In the bike as the panniers are quite cavernous. The main things being a rack for a water container, spare fuel and tool compartment.
I found some steel mesh and bent it up around a 5 litre bottle, welded the edges and the result was a cage that fit perfectly in the right pannier.

Just pop rivetted to the pannier with some galvanised bent brackets.
Next was a 1.5 litre Fuel Friend from ebay @ £18. These are really handy and come in all different sizes and capacities. Their website is www.fuelfriend.de. The problem is I could only find the 1L, 1.5L and 2L variants in the UK. The bracket is just another piece of bent mesh as an L bracket and a strap to secure.

Now I need to find a tool compartment to fit on the bike, ideally not taking up any more space in the panniers.

Saturday 19 July 2014

KTM XCW GPS Lap Timer Build













I decided to build a lap timer for the KTM, so that I could record my lap times. There are a few on the market but no way I am spending £300 on one to use once in a blue moon.

The main feature in the end product is that you can set a start line position with GPS. When that start position is then passed, the lap restarts. This means you can ride say ten laps without having to touch the timer and then review the times afterwards. It has a 50 lap memory, with a max of 99 hours, 59 minutes and 59 seconds per lap.




I started off with a GPS module, a PIC micro controller and 16 digit LCD display. The prototype on breadboard  is above.



The software from the micro-controller was written in the C language using MPLAB, the pic was 16F1938 as this gave me the IO I needed as well as a USART to use with the GPS module.



The Maestro  module spits out a standard SIRF marine protocol for GPS devices. This means I just needed to extract the parts I needed and convert them to variables.


Commands received:
  • $GPGGA,200307.000,5217.7217,N,00153.2103,W,1,04,2.9,97.3,M,48.1,M,,0000*72
GGA Global Positioning System Fix Data. Time, Position and fix related data
for a GPS receiver
11
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 | 12 13 14 15
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
$--GGA,hhmmss.ss,llll.ll,a,yyyyy.yy,a,x,xx,x.x,x.x,M,x.x,M,x.x,xxxx*hh
1) Time (UTC)
2) Latitude
3) N or S (North or South)
4) Longitude
5) E or W (East or West)
6) GPS Quality Indicator,
0 - fix not available,
1 - GPS fix,
2 - Differential GPS fix
7) Number of satellites in view, 00 - 12
8) Horizontal Dilution of precision
9) Antenna Altitude above/below mean-sea-level (geoid)
10) Units of antenna altitude, meters
11) Geoidal separation, the difference between the WGS-84 earth
ellipsoid and mean-sea-level (geoid), "-" means mean-sea-level below ellipsoid
12) Units of geoidal separation, meters
13) Age of differential GPS data, time in seconds since last SC104
type 1 or 9 update, null field when DGPS is not used
14) Differential reference station ID, 0000-1023
15) Checksum

Non-fixed:
$GPGGA,134440.455,,,,,0,00,,,M,0.0,M,,0000*54

After fix:

$GPGGA,143428.000,5217.7175,N,00153.2144,W,1,04,4.1,83.2,M,48.1,M,,0000*72

The GPGGA packet gave me the time and position as well as if the module had a valid fix.

Once I had played around with the software and got the timer to work, which was easy with a one second pulse coming straight from the module. It was time to test it.

Walking around a field trying to get the thing to trigger was the first problem. It was difficult to set the start position tolerance, because you are never going to read the exact same position twice. So I opted to have a setting which you could change. This ended up being a tolerance of 0.003 on the co-ordinate position of 9999.9999 N 9999.9999W for example.

I then designed up a proper PCB and got it manufactured.

Schematic pages:



The IO between the GPS module and PIC had to be opto-isolataed because the PIC has a 5V supply and the GPS 3.3V.



PCB Layout:


The manufactured board from PCB train, this cost about £50 for two boards on a 15 day turn around.


I had to keep almost everything surface mount as I was short on space.
The populated PCB:


The PCB was designed so the LCD screen stacks on top with an inline standard pitch connector:


The final article installed on the bike, with the only waterproof enclosure I could find:


The green button next to the grip on the left is to cycle between the menus and start/stop the timer. I managed to find this on ebay as a replacement to another manufacturer's barpad lap timer so this suited perfectly.

The lap timer is now wired into the bike battery, not a PP3 as in the photo.

That's it, sorry it's not more in depth but there is over 50 hours of work here in software/hardware design.

I just need to find a better enclosure, something a bit sleeker looking.

Saturday 28 June 2014

Llangollen, Wales Camping Weekend off roading


As a prologue to the European adventures in 2015 which we are going to plan soon. Me and Matt decided the only way to get away with our commitments is a weekend.

So we rode up to Llangollen (Wales) for a weekend of trail riding and camping


Our camp site, after the sheep had all ran off once they saw us.


The trails were hard work on the big bikes that were laden with the camping gear. We did surprisingly well and only dropped the bikes once each.


We started off in the rain from Redditch, but it soon cleared up and the sun was shining by the next day.


The GS was definately christened by getting it as muddy as possible. As mentioned it was quite dry so this was actually quite difficult.



Tuesday 27 May 2014

BMW R1150GS Auxiliary battery for camping etc. Build & Install

In order to charge phones/tablets and any other devices when camping I have fitted an auxiliary battery to the GS. Luckily my bike is the non-ABS model, so the space where the ABS pump usually goes is more than big enough for a 10Ah battery and charge electronics.



There are two outputs from the additional battery, one is a socket mounted in the side of the fuse cover and the other is to a cigarette lighter socket in the topbox.
You can plug a phone charger in the topbox and lock it away if leaving the bike unattended or whilst riding to keep it dry.



The additional socket on the side of the bike enables a special box I built to plug in, this box has two USB 5V chargers in with a switch mode regulator and a 4W LED light to illuminate your tent.

This all means that you can have as many gadgets and lights running as you like, as the bike will always start from the normal battery in the morning.
There is also a 5mm Bi-Colour LED on the dash, which tells you the state of the battery.



LED Status Indicator
Solid Green - Aux Battery Charged (>12.7V) - engine ON
Solid Red - Charging
Flashing Red once in 5 seconds - Aux or bike battery <12.2V - 25-50% charged
Flashing Green once in 5 seconds - All Healthy - engine OFF

The microcontroller picks up an input from the alternator which ensures the charge relay is only engaged when the engine is running. It then disconnects the battery every 15 minutes and waits for the battery voltage to settle. Once it is settled, the aux battery voltage reading determines if the battery is charged yet. Once it is above 12.7V after this test, the green LED illuminates and the relay stays disengaged.

If the voltage of the aux battery then drops below 12.7V, the relay kicks back in and it starts all over again.

After a year, I decided to add some extras on and tidy up the wiring.
One particular problem was the fuseholders were positioned under the fuel tank, so if a fuse blows it means taking the tank off. This only takes five minutes, but is a pain when out and about.

I brought a 6 way blade fuseholder for £4 and made a bracket to bolt it to, this then nicely sits under the seat. 
As well as the new fuse box, I decided to add a 50AMP anderson connector so that we can jump the bikes, plug them together or use a set or crocodile jump leads I keep in the topbox. The cable is 4AWG which is rated to probably 135Amps and absolutely ample.

The last trip ended up with us in the middle of nowhere with a flat battery and jump starting Matt's bike from mine with some fence wire we found. We will be better prepared next time!!

I have added some extras to the setup in the form of a new cigarette socket in the top box with an LED sidelight I had kicking around:

I also added a cigarette lighter socket in the right pannier, my plan is to buy a 12V cooler bag but my thoughts are that it will not work well without any ventilation in the pannier:

I also added another LED light to the side of the bike for camping and breakdowns etc. at night. This is powered from the auxiliary battery so you can leave it on all night and still start the bike in the morning. I have put a small switch just under the seat to turn it on and off: